Best Samgyeopsal in Seoul: where to eat it and how

What is Samgyeopsal?

Samgyeopsal means “three-layer flesh”: unmarinated pork belly, cut thick and grilled at your table over charcoal or a hot plate. It is less a dish than an evening — friends, a grill, a pile of lettuce and a bottle of soju. Most places also serve moksal (pork neck), which is leaner and just as popular.

What does Samgyeopsal taste like?

Crisp, smoky edges and juicy fat. The meat itself is only lightly salted; the flavour comes from what you wrap it with — garlic, ssamjang (a thick soybean-chilli paste), sesame-oil salt, grilled kimchi and fresh lettuce.

How do you eat Samgyeopsal?

Let the meat brown on one side before turning; in many places the staff cut it with scissors and tell you when it is ready. Take a lettuce or perilla leaf, add a piece of pork, a dab of ssamjang, a slice of garlic and some grilled kimchi, fold it into one bite and eat it whole. Finish with kimchi stew or fried rice made on the grill.

Where can I eat Samgyeopsal in Seoul?

Every neighbourhood has a BBQ street. Look for 삼겹살 or 고기 on the sign and tables with built-in grills. Sindang, Euljiro and Mapo are known for old-school pork places.

Good to know

• ●Most places expect a minimum of two portions per table, so solo diners may be turned away at peak times.
• ●Side dishes, lettuce and garlic are free and refillable.
• ●A sauce-free bite first: dip in the sesame-oil salt (기름장) to taste the pork itself.
• ●Your clothes will smell of smoke — many places give you a bag or apron for your jacket.