Best Ganjang Gejang in Seoul: where to eat it and how

What is Ganjang Gejang?

Ganjang gejang is fresh blue crab marinated raw for several days in a soy sauce brine with garlic, ginger and chilli. The meat turns silky and the roe sets into a rich, savoury custard. It's served cold, usually as a set meal with rice, soup and side dishes.

What does Ganjang Gejang taste like?

Deeply savoury and slightly sweet, with a clean taste of the sea. The texture is soft and jelly-like rather than flaky — closer to raw seafood than to cooked crab. Yangnyeom gejang is the spicy red version.

How do you eat Ganjang Gejang?

Use your hands; gloves are often provided. Squeeze the meat out of the legs and body, then put a spoonful of rice into the top shell, mix it with the roe and sauce left inside, and eat it wrapped in seasoned seaweed (gim). That last step is why it's called the rice thief.

Where can I eat Ganjang Gejang in Seoul?

Specialist gejang restaurants rather than general Korean restaurants. In Seoul, the streets around Sinsa Station in Gangnam are known for them. On the west and south coasts, Seosan and Yeosu are famous for crab.

Good to know

• ●The crab is raw. If you're pregnant or have trouble with raw seafood, choose a cooked dish instead.
• ●Many restaurants serve it as a set for two or more — check before you go if you're eating alone.
• ●Rice is usually refillable, and you'll want a second bowl.
• ●It's messy: wear something you don't mind getting soy sauce on.